All's well in the States

American Nepalese Association just concluded its 29th annual convention. A candid look for those who missed it.

You would have thought someone important was getting married. Women in flashy sarees, men in pristine topees, the countless handshakes, million namastes, loud music, men eyeing women, women eying men, drunks, cacophony of guffaws and shhs, aunts and uncle connecting family trees, and countless kids running amok under signs that read “Welcome to 29th ANA Convention, Washington DC July 1- 3, 2011”.

Around 4000+ Nepalis from all over North America gathered at the Westfield Marriott Hotel, Chantilly, Virginia for the 29th annual Association of Nepalese in Americas (ANA) convention –the largest gathering of non-residential Nepalis in the world. Amazed by this grand orgy of the American Nepali diaspora, the few non-Nepali guests at the Marriot where left bewildered by the ecstatic chaos that we Nepalis seem to bring along.

There was mix of Americans, Nepalis, and American-Nepalis –one poet called them Nepalicans –who were kept busy by a host of programs: Poetry festivals, yoga sessions, movies, speed dating, discussion forums, food stalls, and cultural and fashion shows were organized. And while laurels are due for the ambitious plans of the organizing committee, constant delays wreaked havoc all convention long to the annoyance of everybody present.

Anyone who doubts the adage absence makes the heart grow fonder should talk to a Nepali away from home. Like all Nepali gatherings in far of lands, national flags were waved and long speeches’ about our responsibility to give back to the motherland were delivered. And while some walked the walk other walked away from N.G.O booths that actually help build schools for children in rural Nepal. It was good to see young professional from all over America laboring for their causes, and that good hearted and deep pocketed people insured a successful fund raising initiative. The two notable fund raisers promoting their cause were Grassroot Movement in Nepal (GMIN), and Nepalese Youth Foundation.

Fundraising was on everyone’s mind. Congressman hopeful Darsan Rauniyar was also spotted touching base with the Nepali community. Mr. Rauniyar was well received and is quickly becoming the hot topic in Nepali households. As the first person with Nepali origin to run for Congress, Mr. Rauniyar has kicked open many doors –is the diaspora is finally coming of age?

There is a genuine sense of pride amongst people here about his decision to run for the U.S. Congress from Washington States, 1st Congressional District. But if pride and blessings alone won you elections my mother would ensure I became Prime Minister. This is America and money talks. Mr. Rauniyar hopes that along with the good wishes Nepalis in the U.S. will also wriggle their pockets to help him win the seat. As an immigrant himself he is passionate about immigration reform and believes everyone should have a fair shot at the American Dream. He also hopes to strengthen the Nepali voice in the Congress.

At night, with the children and oldies gone, the drinking crowd was seen loosely swaying away at the bar. Under the careful eye of the hefty bouncers, Nepalis were clinking glasses –social networking at its finest. The bar would have made more money had it not been for the hopelessly slow service, and the good old Nepali sensibility of bringing liquor from home and drinking it in the room.

Once the bar shut, there was a mass exodus of people towards the nearest exist where hundreds could also be seen puffing away at their cigarettes. And in pure Nepali style most of them refused to throw the stub in the bin –who said we don’t stick to our roots!

The cultural program was one of the main attractions of the event. There was an entertaining jumble of shows: Lakhe dance, pop song from a number of Nepali artists, martial arts, prayer, and folk dancing. However, even as the rhetoric about the need to pass on the Nepali culture to the next generation dominated the event the only people missing were the next generation. Kids that grew up in America were a no-show in large numbers. I talked to some of these kids who made for the door exactly 3.5 minutes into the program; they thought that the program was catered for “the pure Nepali types” and just not their thing. It must be said that there were a small number of American born Nepalis who did show up and even put on a good show.

ANA also showcased the sporting abilities of the Nepali diaspora. A variety of sports competitions were organized that saw a number of teams and individuals from multiple U.S. cities duel it out. The younger crowd was enthusiastic about its participation and one could sense genuine rivalries brewing.

The long awaited DJ Night saw a mass of sober, semi-sober, semi-drunk and absolutely drunk Nepali’s party it out. It was a gala time for the young and old alike who grooved to classic Nepali and English tunes. There was additional entertainment for the controversy hounds when an impromptu mini-julus broke out after the event. Hordes of dissatisfied patrons could be heard shouting “ANA sucks!” after the DJ began to pack his bags at 1. Apologizes were sought, explanations were given, angry words were exchanged, and the security crew was alerted.

All in all the 29th ANA was a success. There are disappointments and criticisms but that is part and parcel of organizing an event of this magnitude. This annual gatherings of Nepalis in America is a must visit for anyone looking to get in touch with his/her roots while having an interesting time (understatement!). Now that the event is over, 4000+ Nepali are returning to their homes in America having found friends and family; and reconfirmed their Nepali identity.

Found in Neil Douglas-Klotz: The Sufi Book of Life.

In the tarot, the high princess
expresses that veiled self
that cocoons mystery.
Like her, you seem to guides me into the realm
of back stage,
as if to keep me protected from behind woven
images of firmness,
as if to preserve me
till the time is ripe
to be given openly again.

Cycles, Oil and National Security

Does the boring wait outside Kathmandu petrol pumps count as torture under the United Nations Convention against Torture? It might as well. The physiologically and psychologically devastating wait at the petrol pump (gas station) from the moment you stand in the line to when that black gold finally fills your tank wastes the entire day. Imagine all the things we could be doing.

And it’s not just the wait. It’s the entire setting that takes its toll: the narrow streets, the traffic, the (c) rowdy Micro buses, the slow Safa-tempos, the holy roads, the constant honking, the pollution, the dirt, the poverty, the ugly billboards, the even uglier Bagmati, the street kids, the garbage, the street dogs, the anger —Surly this has an aftermath in our physical and mental wellbeing.

All that time spent standing the line, cooped up in a car or on a bike- in the heat- in the rain- has beat down on us. It has turned this once tranquil loving city into a nightmare of a town. Imagine what the exotica searching tourists are whispering about us. Never ending peace and love, ya right!


We have created a system that feeds into this fire, says Anil Bhattarai, in his April 18th, 2011 Oped (un) Common Sense in the Kathmandu Post. He explains Nepal’s helplessness to tackle the supply side of the oil market and the urgency to address our demand. This is a zest, of how the aforementioned system works-- when the public transportation is inefficient and private vehicle is a status symbol, cars become more popular, leading to an excessive surge in traffic in an ill-constructed city, which in turn makes motor bikes more popular, which in turn worsens the traffic; all the while increasing our demand for oil. And since we don’t have any oil it’s important we control how and why we demand it.

Plus this over dependence on oil is weakening our national security, both in terms of defense and the environment. Notice how we seem so vulnerable every time India decides to cut oil supply. No one nation should be so reliant on this one commodity that it buys almost exclusively from this one nation. Our present national security policy is a joke. The answer is clear: controlling our oil usage can trigger a lot of positive changes.

The article suggests some eco-friendly approaches. Encouraging a (bi)cycle friendly culture could be a gate to other avenues of change. As more people get on their cycles, or use public transport we can collectively demand better service and more efficient roads. This can snowball into a solution that can address many woes. So far the (bi)cycle has been the uncool choice of conveyance- a play thing of the children. The Cycle, as we call it, has been replaced by the more alluring motor bikes. But motor bikes, like cars and taxi's burn oil - an energy source we do not own. The grand Cycle is one of the solutions to our so many problems. I think everyone should hop on their cycles, and this taboo against the adults and “respectable” people riding cycle is ridiculous. It’s ecologically responsible, way cheaper, and better for our national security. Plus it’s plain old fun.

As citizens of Earth, consider the implication oil extraction has elsewhere. Our dependence of oil effects ecologies and communities where oil is extracted, whether it be the Middle East or the Niger Delta. And our use is having a notable effect at home. This surly has to affect our rational.

Clearly this initiative to make Kathmandu into "an eco-friendly city" will need political will but that political will shall never come till there is social push for it. Shall we as free people do nothing till the Government decides to do something? Are we that dependent on the government that we cannot move till the oligarchy wishes us to move. This is not a UML vs Congress vs Monarchist vs Maobadi’s vs Madhesi’s vs Khas vs Kiratis vs etc…issue. This is about our city, our community, our home.

Support groups like Kathmandu Cycle City 2020 - Ride with Pride!!. The goal of this group is to Make Kathmandu a cycle friendly city till 2020. Contact them regarding what you can do to help.

The cost of using oil goes beyond just what you pay in the pump. The more oil we use the worse our community gets. Our over dependence on oil is the reason we stand in lines at petrol pumps leading us to feel mentally beat down, it’s the reason why our national sovereignty is so compromised, it’s the reason for our unhealthiness. And this won’t change till we change our lifestyles.





Related article: More energy, please; Paavan Mathema, Nepali Times, FROM ISSUE #552 (06 MAY 2011 - 12 MAY 2011)

A Kathmandu Sunset

The sun left a myriad blue in its wake.
A moment to gaze the
legacy of weepy Monsoons.
Grandmothers graze terraces,
moving between cloth lines,
and playground deprived children.
And babas honk and curse
to reach home
to bell jingling ammas
calling the attention of million gods
to thank them for the terrace,
the air,
and lights that swallow stars.

A bitter free trade pill to swallow - Manmohanama care anyone?!

If the generic pharmaceutical companies in India are to forced to raise costs due to increased pressure from the European intellectual property rights laws, the cost of medicine is going to sky rocket. While the EU-India free trade deal seeks to increase the market accessibility and trade volume between these two regions, the implications of this deal on public health throughout the developing world is dire.

Besides providing relatively inexpensive drugs to the population rich Indian market, these Indian companies also export cheaper yet effective substitute to other developing countries in Asia and Africa. This deal is EU-India on paper only, its implication will be felt by a lot of countries.

The rise in cost of drugs means people will have to delegate more of their income to the purchase of medicines. With the price of food already rising this could be a burden not many shoulders can bare.




Is it time for other countries to put diplomatic pressure on the Indian government to do the right thing. What is the rationale behind providing big pharmaceutical companies such easy access to your markets even though the risk to the Indian public(and others) are so high? Who benefits from this deal?

Tansen

A few hours away from the buzz of Kathmandu in the southern slope of the Shreenagar hill in the Lesser Himalayas resides the medieval town of Tansen. This World Heritage Site is lined with Newari shop-Houses and temples. Besides being known for its excellent traditional metalwork, Tansen also boasts the production of the Dhaka cloth and traditional Nepali topis. Tansen is a testament of the architecture and artistry of the Newari people.

The history of Tansen started from around the 11th Century AD when the region was part of the Bara Magarat, the twelve territories administered by the Magar rulers. Tansen was the center for many historic battles in Nepal, namely the famous Anglo-Nepal war of the early 1800s. Col. Ujir Singh Thapa who commanded the army in the region was in an extremely trying situation; his men were outnumbered four to one by the English forces. He desperately asked for divine help before going into battle, promising a temple in the name of Goddess Bhagwati (who is ferocious and loves blood sacrifices) if she would help him. He won. In 1815, he kept his word and built a temple to the goddess. The most important landmark is the octagonal Pavilion in the middle of Sitalpati, the main market square.



Tansens charms are expounded by its traditional lifestyle and its awe inspiring location. Shreenagar Danda (hill) offers a panoramic view of the high Himalaya. From west to east, the Kanjiroba, Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Mansiri, Ganesh and Langtang groups are in sight. Other nearby attractions include Ranighat, a Rana palace next to the Kaligandaki River, and Ridi Bazaar,a major Hindu pilgrimage destination at the auspicious confluence of the Kaligandaki and Ridi Rivers. A large mela is held there on Maghe Sankranti (about January 14). The jamre folk song performance of the Magars are colorful. Dancing and feasting are accompanied by drumbeats of the madal during festivals.

The hilltop town of Tansen exults in a week-long festive spree beginning with Janai Purnima, when Hindus change their sacred threads. The next day, Gai Jatra is marked by parading figures of cows made of bamboo and cloth. Ropai Jatra is the rice planting ceremony and participants perform plowing and planting acts on the streets. During Bagh Jatra, actors dressed up like tigers and hunters march through town. Then there are the parades. Images of Ganesh, Bhimsen and Narayan are placed on palanquins and carried around Tansen. The celebrations climax on August 12 with Bhagawati Jatra, the procession of the town's protective goddess.

Regular bus services are available from all major places like Kathmandu, Pokhara etc. The nearest airports are in Pokhara and Bhairahawa. Several hotels are located in Tansen. The number of travellers to this "hill station" have increased over the years, and so have tourist facilities.

Doomsday Kathmandu

Imagine waking up in a shaking building echoing with your mothers screams. You try to run but it’s too late. The next thing you remember is being pulled out from the rumble. Your house, your roof, your shelter is now ruble; scattered onto the streets. Someone gives you water, you sip and look around to realize that you are not alone. Your city has crumbled into a human tragedy. You hear screams, calls for help from every direction. You realize your family is not around. You call for your amma and baba. No answer. You shout again and again. They are buried. You start shoveling with your hands. It hurts but you must go on. They are in there and you know it. It hurts but you dig- clothes, glass, bricks, cement, utensils, but no life. No amma, no baba. No answer.

Shiva has just danced the Rudra Tandav; everywhere you look there is destruction. The houses of Kathmandu that have leaned on each other have fallen. There is telephone, no water, no electricity (and its not coming back), no internet. The Kathmandu you’ve known and loved lies buried under its self. What do you do? Who do you call? Where is help? Where is relief? Who will give you food? Where are you to go and to whom?

The cries to make Kathmandu earthquake safe has fallen on deaf ears of make a pick: bureaucrats, politician, monarchy, the public, God, me, you, Rajesh Hamal, Rajnikanth- at this point it doesn’t matter. For more than 50 years Kathmandu has boomed into a chaos: houses mushrooming everywhere; streets slithering around buildings at whim; people on the road; vehicles on the footpaths, a free for all city where malls tower next to houses, temples placed in the middle of the streets, bricks everywhere, schools buildings as feeble as our government, and no open space. We have slowly suffocated ourselves, and while these peculiarities are part of the Kathmandupan its very existence seem idiotic given the threat of a massive earthquake hitting Kathmandu is quite real. The romantic in you withers when you remind yourself of the warning: It’s not the earthquakes that kill people it’s the buildings.

If an earthquake similar to the infamous 1934 earthquake hits Kathmandu, GeoHazards International says, it would destroy 6 out of 10 houses in the city. That’s 60% of the city. Baneshwors gone. Ganeshwor no more, Thapathali, Kupondole. Jhamsikhel, Maharajganj, Teku, Aason, you take your pick -all gone. Kathmandu is a time bomb. Claire Cozens (AFP) writes that, “Geologists believe it (Kathmandu) is at risk from an earthquake with a magnitude of around eight -- 10 times as powerful as the Haiti shock that killed more than 212,000 people.” This is our city she is talking about. We are ranked one in terms of vulnerability. We cannot remain desensitized from such a grave omen.

Lets face it we are in big trouble; we have completely failed in taking safety measure. But what next, are we doomed or is there still a chance? Well in terms of precautions we are doomed- sad but true. We cannot easily reverse what has already been, at least not in time, however what we can do is educate ourselves on survival mechanisms, both during and after the earthquake.

Authorities need to tell us what to do during an earthquake, where to hid, what is the safest place to be in. In case of a disaster where do we get the food we need. What happens if all the roads to Kathmandu are destroyed? Where and how will we access the relief. They need to take a better look at where the tents are going to come from, where do we get the doctors from, and how and when do we rebuild. Sadly, its time to focus on the cure. We cannot prevent an earthquake, we can’t even prevent the destruction of life and property it’s going to cause, but we can prevent the spread of disease, and we can be prepared. Many earthquake education foundations focus on prevention, and more power to them, but the time for prevention is over. We must change our focus from prevention to cure. If we have some preparation underway we need to educate the people, we need to equip them to make rational choices. It must be obvious that I don’t mean we go on building houses the way we have in the past, prevention is still better than cure, but as a city the time for prevention is over.

Remember Haiti, remember how the entire world banded together to help, goodwill all over, and humanity was at its finest, but as time moves on so do people but those in Haiti still have to live with the horrors everyday. Those horrors will soon be ours. We are the unfortunate custodians of Haiti’s sorrow.

It’s a scary feeling not knowing what to do next. Its scary to be hopeless and alone, and yet most of Kathmandu will find itself in that situation when an earthquake hits. We need to empower ourselves, educate ourselves, and think long term. The government and the civil society, you and me- needs to work together, with each other, for each other. Is that too much to ask?

(Nicholas Pitt / Alamy)